
Secrets of a Sommelier: Pinot Noir at Pebble Beach Food & Wine
Rajat Parr, Wine director of Michael Mina and RN 74 says it best, “You don’t want a Pinot to be too loose.”
Damon Ornowski, Master Sommelier and Italian wine expert adds to Parr's theory, “Great Pinot has tension. It says, 'I’m going to seduce you and you’re going to have to take your time.'”
As the panel of legendary sommeliers, began to blind taste these Pinot Noirs, I took notes about how they assess a wine's color, aroma, and taste. They make note of the wine's: acidity, alcohol, earthy nuances, use of oak, climate etc.
2008 MacMurray Ranch, Russian River
It was viscus, had notes of raspberry and cherry-cola and offered potent alchohol.
2008 Cusumano, Sicily, Italy
Everyone thought this was a Barbaresco. Those Nebbiolo based wines are compared to great Pinots from nearby Burgundy. However, this one was a Pinot from an island much further south. It had firm tannins, subtle earthy notes, and it was intense and extracted. After all, a warm climate translates to more alcohol.
2009 Hamilton Russell, Walker Bay, South Africa
There were nuances of burnt tar and rubber. Nevertheless, it was bright because it came from a cool climate.
2007 August Kessler, Rheingau, Germany
This Spatburgunder had lots of acidity and extremely light-pale color because Germany is one of the furthest wine growing regions away from the equator
2009 Evening Land “The Tempest Vineyard”, Santa Rita Hills
It was woodsy like you were kicking up underbrush in a forest. It had: black cherry, baby fat (whatever that means), truffle, and ample alcohol that was balanced and far from offensive.
2007 Peregrine, Central Otago, New Zealand
Nice core fruit, great acidity and nuances of cinnamon and rose petal. Look out for wine this region. They are not showy but racy.
2009 Twomey Pinot Noir, Russian River
Larry Stone, Master Sommelier and wine god thought this was a warm-climate Burgundy, which proves that wine humbles everyone.