Burgundy: a Seducer

2008 Domaine Arlaud 1er Cru "Les Millandes", Morey St. Denis, France ($75 per half bottle)
We were at Casanova and we had this wine with chantrelle mushroom ravioli, which paired amazingly. It had a slight brettanomyces note that wasn't offensive like some Burgundy. It had some tart cranberry and raspberry flavors that weren't showy and seemed to seduce you slowly. Not an everyday wine, but worth the splurge. This wine wasn't a whore. It was sexy, but made you work for it. We're glad we weren't in a rush.

Gevrey Chambertin

2008 Lucien Boilot Geverey Chambertin A.C. $47.99 at Whole Foods
The color was light, unlike a Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir. It displayed nuances of red fruits like strawberry, cranberry, and raspberry. There were some subtle French oak nuances and it started to really open up at the end. It was closed and tight at first, like that of a hot chick that won't wear slutty clothes. She was elegant. It was like a soul surfer that doesn't wear colorful wetsuits. Since it was my friend Ben's birthday, I wanted to get something special to drink, but I blind-tasted him. At first, he said he was underwhelmed, but he kept coming back for more. He sipped slowy and looked sophisticated. The wine had acid, tannin and tension, which was good. A lot of new world Pinot Noir's lack tannin. Towards the end it started to show some terroir. We drank this one too early, but we know she will mature into something beautiful. I give it 4/5 stars.

Flagey Echezaux

1998 Echezaux Grand Cru, Immanuel Rouget – For $550 a bottle, I thought the wine was extremely acidic and a bit oxidized. I smelled some red apple nuance that didn’t seem to belong. The folks on 13 know their wines and they mentioned that the wine needed time to come around. They drank it all, so that was a good sign. Lasted tasted fall of 2010 Drink now

Vosne Romanee

1988 Vosne Romaneé "Les Beaux Monts" Confuron (8/21/07) - There should've been a disclaimer on this bottle. It should've said, "Ignore the aroma's of rat hair and enjoy one of the best Pinot Noir's you've ever tasted. So delicate and how could anyone refuse a rustic pasta when this gem is served? Last tasted 2007 Drink now 

Clos de Vougeot

1995 Clos de Vougeot,E. Gros - Holy earth mousse-poo that I somehow love. That is, in a brettanomyces sick kind of way. On the other hand, it was rich, full-bodied, and super-viscous. Very complex earth with a big fruit forward style. Not quite subtle, but really "Old World". Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2012 javascript:void(0)

Morey St. Denis

2004 Perrot- Minot, Morey St. Denis $75 per half bottle (9/25/07) – A masculine darkness mingled with bitter chocolate. It was powerful and table 14 needed two bottles. Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2015 

Corton (Red)

2005 Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits "Vielles Vignes" by Olivier Juan 9/6/07 - it was bottled in Morey St. Denis. It didn't taste good in the cellar, but I still thought it was nice for the price. It was like Barney's and Dragon's breath mixed with raspberries and jewels that had just been crushed on the curb. Zane and I like it and his neighbor came back for seconds. Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2012 

2005 Bourgogne Jeran Haut de Cotes de Nuits "Vielles Vignes" 8/30/07 - there was so much raspberry jam, but it wasn't sour and it displayed velvet edges. The perfect cafe' wine. It was what the jewel block was trying to imitate. Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2012 

1995 Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire, Rotz - Gevrey Chambertin - This had some major barnyard. The smell of a barn is sometimes the most rewarding traits when there's a nice focused viscosity that's light. Lots of funky mushrooms. There were some pinot characteristics in terms of its viscosity. You could smell the cherry leather tobacco from a pipe smoker as your dog takes a poo. I thought it was a Nebbiolo or Chianti by Ruffino. It had the viscosity a Piedmont red might have with the earth of that super-funky Chianti "Oro Gold". Last tasted 2007 Drink now 

Bourgogne (Red)

2005 Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits "Vielles Vignes" by Olivier Juan 9/6/07 - it was bottled in Morey St. Denis. It didn't taste good in the cellar, but I still thought it was nice for the price. It was like Barney's and Dragon's breath mixed with raspberries and jewels that had just been crushed on the curb. Zane and I like it and his neighbor came back for seconds. Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2012 

2005 Bourgogne Jeran Haut de Cotes de Nuits "Vielles Vignes" 8/30/07 - there was so much raspberry jam, but it wasn't sour and it displayed velvet edges. The perfect cafe' wine. It was what the jewel block was trying to imitate. Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2012 

1995 Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire, Rotz - Gevrey Chambertin - This had some major barnyard. The smell of a barn is sometimes the most rewarding traits when there's a nice focused viscosity that's light. Lots of funky mushrooms. There were some pinot characteristics in terms of its viscosity. You could smell the cherry leather tobacco from a pipe smoker as your dog takes a poo. I thought it was a Nebbiolo or Chianti by Ruffino. It had the viscosity a Piedmont red might have with the earth of that super-funky Chianti "Oro Gold". Last tasted 2007 Drink now 

Montrachet

1986 Montrachet, Bouchard - canned pineapple with honey. The wine had some amazing acidity for being such an old wine. I liked the butterscotch candy nuances a midst the other three-thousand descriptors I remember. I woke up the nest day and the wine was lingering on my palette. The number of nuances listed on paper would have resembled the "Scroll of David". My manager Ray Bertolino almost had a heart attack; he thought it was so good. Still, more interesting than drinkable a touch over-the-hill. Last tasted 2007 Drink now 

Chassagne Montrachet

2005 Chassagne M. "Les Vergers" 1er D. Fontaine Gagnard 8/30/07 - angelus brought this and I was impressed by their ability to pick good wines that are "under the radar". This would be on the list for under $100 and I recommend it to anyone who likes a good chard that's got finesse without being overly sulfur rich like some Pulignys. Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2015 

Chevalier Montrachet

1999 Chevalier Montrachet - Jadot - Really drinkable. So drinkable, that I wanted to drink a whole bottle or six. I wanted to savor it for its cerebral qualities and pound it for its balance. Probably, one of the best chardonnay's I've ever had. The sulfur had mellowed out just enough to slake anyone's thirst. Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2012 

Puligny Montrachet

2005 Louis Latour –Chardonnay - Puligny Montrachet, (Burgundy) France
It’s super-rich but not flabby. The list of characteristics in this wine is unending. Please, experience the nuances of popcorn, allspice, cinnamon, nutmeg, honey, butter, vanilla, eggnog… and more. The township of Puligny Montrachet is home to such Grand Cru vineyards like: Le Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet and Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet. If your customer likes a full-bodied chard like Pahlmeyer but are willing to try something new, tell them to taste this. If they’re gun-shy, tell them that if they don’t like it, you’ll drink it. Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2011 

2004 Latour, Puligny $85 (9/26/07) – it’s really tight, but there’s a blossom marigold effect that won’t make sense to anyone but me. It’s like a sunflower that closed and then opens in your mouth. Last tasted 2007 Drink now 

2003 Puligny Montrachet - Latour "Les Folatieres" - I blind-tasted Casanova's Wine Director Kris Harriman on this wine and he thought it could pass for a grand cru Chablis by Ravenau. The chalky minerality and high acidity surprised me in such a ripe year. It was a little tight but a nice rich edge on the mouthfeel. Last tasted 2007 Drink now 

1995 Puligny Montrachet "Les Chalamaux", Chateau de Puligny Montrachet - gold in color, but not brown. It had a bromelaide pineapple character integrated with brioche toast, nutmeg, all-spice, caramel, honey, and steely gun-barrel minerality. This was like a ray of sunshine covered with spiky pineapple ooze. Last tasted 2007 Drink now 

Meursault

2004 Chateau de Puligny Montrachet, Meursault - The light gold color and fleshy popcorn and apple aroma's were present. It was real fat and approachable but had enough back-palette acidity make you wonder, is this a Granny Smith? Then the more of that loosely-goosey instant gratification lures you in for another sip. Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2011 

2004 Meursault "Les Clous" Bouchard (7/30/07) - nice lean acidity with a fat richness. It gets you here than it gets you there. It was refreshing, but a little closed in terms of its tartness. Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2011 

Corton (White)

2005 Corton Charlemagne, Louis Latour – the gold color indicated that it was getting a bit old and it had that brioche nuance. For $125 a half bottle, this wine was disappointing. Although interesting, the wine is headed downhill. Maybe the wines just weren’t stored or shipped properly? Last tasted winter 2010 Drink now

2005 Corton Charlemagne - Henri Boilot - $125.00 Great citrus minerality that was real clean with nice weight on the center of the tongue. It had a nice bite and was pure. I felt like a deer drinking out of a brook. Had a loosely-goosey, friendly approachableness that a Meursault might have and had backbone. It wasn't sour, but made you salivate—a real hot blonde with a bright future. Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2011 

Chablis

2005 “Les Clos Grand Cru”, Jean Marc Brocard– The guys on table seven bought this one and it was beautiful. It was exotic in that it had lemon and passionfruit minerality and had nuances of wet stones. It had a perfect zing of acidity without being green and lean. Last tasted summer of 2010 Drink now-2013 

2005 “Les Clos Grand Cru” Frederic Magnien– There’s no gun-barrel and is not as intense for Chablis. For $145, there’s nice flavors, but not as austere as I’d like. This year must be too hot, because there’s not enough acidity. Last tasted 10/15/07 Drink now-2013 

2004 “Valmur Premier Cru”, Domaine Ravenau – There were nice hazelnut and almond aromas, but it seemed like it was getting old. I thought it was rather fat for Chablis, but had nice acidity. There was a nice lemon curd aroma, but I expected more. Was there too much oak for this wine? Last tasted fall of 2010 Drink now-2013 

1998 Chablis "Les Blanchots" Laroche (7/30/07) – It had a gold color. There were some rich marshmallows, brioche, hazelnuts, and all-spice nuances. This was real fat and a little on the edge but had a little acidity left to make it drinkable, for now. I don't think it has a long life. Last tasted 2007 Drink now 

Pouilly-Fuisse

2005 Drouhin – Chardonnay -Pouilly Fuisse, (Burgundy) France
It’s lean and crisp but it has nice weight on the tongue. This displays nice allspice nuances. Because there’s less sun in Europe than California, Pouilly Fuisse has enough acidity to create a long finish. The region of Cote de Beaune, Burgundy (Fr.) only grows chardonnay. Beneath the soil, the vines are enriched with the remains of animals that were driven off the cliff by Stone Age hunters. Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2010 

'05 D.R.C Montrachet

I woke up, threw some sandals on and headed to Pebble Beach to sip some vino. I started sipping at 10:00 am for the Pinot Noir blind-tasting. After finishing that life-altering experience, I noticed some sommeliers cleaning up after the "Montrachet: The Heart of Burgundy’s Grand Cru" tasting.

So,I stealthily sauntered in and reached for the dregs of the 2005 Domaine de La Romanee’ Conti “Le Montrachet” Chardonnay, Puligny, France ($5,000). It had searing acidity and displayed nuances of a decadent lemon tart with wet stones. However, I picked up on some nuances of rotten eggs, sulfur, and freshly struck match. This wine was incredible, but way too young to drink. This was clear evidence of statutory wine drinking--a serious violation in wine country. It was nice to be the bum staggering into the high-end scene. If I grabbed a case of those bottles, I could've put a 20% down payment on a nice home. That's silly.