Tannic Pinot: A Dying Breed

2007 Chalone "Estate" Pinot Noir Chalone, CA ($27 at Safeway)
The color is dark--Pinot is normally transparent. There's a noticeable variation in color from the center of the glass to the rim. Although there's nuances of cola, dark fig and dark cherries, I think the fruit's fading and the wine is growing tired. It's high in alcohol, which is one reason I seem to be getting irritated and emotional. Joel Ede, writer for the Monterey County Weekly is tasting this blind and thinks it could be a Syrah, which is a good guess considering the wine's a bit tannic and astringent. Much like Burgundy France, this Pinot was grown at the 1,800 ft elevation in a limestone soil that seems to gives it character. If this were a person it'd be one with backbone. 3/5 stars.

Burgundy: a Seducer

2008 Domaine Arlaud 1er Cru "Les Millandes", Morey St. Denis, France ($75 per half bottle)
We were at Casanova and we had this wine with chantrelle mushroom ravioli, which paired amazingly. It had a slight brettanomyces note that wasn't offensive like some Burgundy. It had some tart cranberry and raspberry flavors that weren't showy and seemed to seduce you slowly. Not an everyday wine, but worth the splurge. This wine wasn't a whore. It was sexy, but made you work for it. We're glad we weren't in a rush.

2010 Hahn Pinot Monterey

2010 Hahn Pinot Noir, Monterey ($10.99 at Safeway)
With a fairly transparent color, this wine weighs in at 14.5% alcohol and has just enough acidity to back up its fruit-forward identity. Expect aromas of cherries, raspberries and ripe strawberries. The texture is silky like satin sheets and the wine is inspiring. Before this epiphany, it seemed that inexpensive local and family owned Pinot did not exist. This winery has been making wine since 1980 and Paul Clifton, the current winemaker, surfs, which makes this product even cooler.

Gevrey Chambertin

2008 Lucien Boilot Geverey Chambertin A.C. $47.99 at Whole Foods
The color was light, unlike a Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir. It displayed nuances of red fruits like strawberry, cranberry, and raspberry. There were some subtle French oak nuances and it started to really open up at the end. It was closed and tight at first, like that of a hot chick that won't wear slutty clothes. She was elegant. It was like a soul surfer that doesn't wear colorful wetsuits. Since it was my friend Ben's birthday, I wanted to get something special to drink, but I blind-tasted him. At first, he said he was underwhelmed, but he kept coming back for more. He sipped slowy and looked sophisticated. The wine had acid, tannin and tension, which was good. A lot of new world Pinot Noir's lack tannin. Towards the end it started to show some terroir. We drank this one too early, but we know she will mature into something beautiful. I give it 4/5 stars.

Flagey Echezaux

1998 Echezaux Grand Cru, Immanuel Rouget – For $550 a bottle, I thought the wine was extremely acidic and a bit oxidized. I smelled some red apple nuance that didn’t seem to belong. The folks on 13 know their wines and they mentioned that the wine needed time to come around. They drank it all, so that was a good sign. Lasted tasted fall of 2010 Drink now

Vosne Romanee

1988 Vosne Romaneé "Les Beaux Monts" Confuron (8/21/07) - There should've been a disclaimer on this bottle. It should've said, "Ignore the aroma's of rat hair and enjoy one of the best Pinot Noir's you've ever tasted. So delicate and how could anyone refuse a rustic pasta when this gem is served? Last tasted 2007 Drink now 

Clos de Vougeot

1995 Clos de Vougeot,E. Gros - Holy earth mousse-poo that I somehow love. That is, in a brettanomyces sick kind of way. On the other hand, it was rich, full-bodied, and super-viscous. Very complex earth with a big fruit forward style. Not quite subtle, but really "Old World". Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2012 javascript:void(0)

Morey St. Denis

2004 Perrot- Minot, Morey St. Denis $75 per half bottle (9/25/07) – A masculine darkness mingled with bitter chocolate. It was powerful and table 14 needed two bottles. Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2015 

Corton (Red)

2005 Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits "Vielles Vignes" by Olivier Juan 9/6/07 - it was bottled in Morey St. Denis. It didn't taste good in the cellar, but I still thought it was nice for the price. It was like Barney's and Dragon's breath mixed with raspberries and jewels that had just been crushed on the curb. Zane and I like it and his neighbor came back for seconds. Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2012 

2005 Bourgogne Jeran Haut de Cotes de Nuits "Vielles Vignes" 8/30/07 - there was so much raspberry jam, but it wasn't sour and it displayed velvet edges. The perfect cafe' wine. It was what the jewel block was trying to imitate. Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2012 

1995 Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire, Rotz - Gevrey Chambertin - This had some major barnyard. The smell of a barn is sometimes the most rewarding traits when there's a nice focused viscosity that's light. Lots of funky mushrooms. There were some pinot characteristics in terms of its viscosity. You could smell the cherry leather tobacco from a pipe smoker as your dog takes a poo. I thought it was a Nebbiolo or Chianti by Ruffino. It had the viscosity a Piedmont red might have with the earth of that super-funky Chianti "Oro Gold". Last tasted 2007 Drink now 

Bourgogne (Red)

2005 Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits "Vielles Vignes" by Olivier Juan 9/6/07 - it was bottled in Morey St. Denis. It didn't taste good in the cellar, but I still thought it was nice for the price. It was like Barney's and Dragon's breath mixed with raspberries and jewels that had just been crushed on the curb. Zane and I like it and his neighbor came back for seconds. Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2012 

2005 Bourgogne Jeran Haut de Cotes de Nuits "Vielles Vignes" 8/30/07 - there was so much raspberry jam, but it wasn't sour and it displayed velvet edges. The perfect cafe' wine. It was what the jewel block was trying to imitate. Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2012 

1995 Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire, Rotz - Gevrey Chambertin - This had some major barnyard. The smell of a barn is sometimes the most rewarding traits when there's a nice focused viscosity that's light. Lots of funky mushrooms. There were some pinot characteristics in terms of its viscosity. You could smell the cherry leather tobacco from a pipe smoker as your dog takes a poo. I thought it was a Nebbiolo or Chianti by Ruffino. It had the viscosity a Piedmont red might have with the earth of that super-funky Chianti "Oro Gold". Last tasted 2007 Drink now 

Wairarapa Pinot Noir

2003 Borthwick Pinot Noir, Wairarapa, N.Z., 9/16/07 - I didn't know that $23 Pinot Noir was supposed to taste like sour cranberries and under-ripe plums. The high acidity reminds me of the green leaves from the top of strawberries' head. The leather and rawhide flavor did remind me of prosciutto and bing cherries. Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2010

Willamette Pinot Noir

2005 Beaux Freres – This one was showing like a Burgundy as it had good structure and some earthy aromas. The fruit wasn’t sweet, which I liked about it. This wine may improve, but its drinking good enough right now. Last tasted summer 2010 Drink now-2014 

2004 Torri Morr "Deux Frères" Pinot Noir from Willamette, Oregon - the strawberry figs were a little thin for what I was expecting. A $75 bottle shouldn’t be so lean, but it did have pomegranate edges. Bouncy enough. Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2012 

Russian River Pinot Noir

2005 O'Connor Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley 8/30/07 - less thin than the Torri Morr and a better value. It had smoky leather integrated with prosciutto. It was subtle without being sour. For $50.00 on list, "What a value! Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2011 

2005 Walter Hanzel "K-Hill" 9/6/07 - this Russian river Pinot displayed strawberries that were peppery and had byte. Very nice. Thank you Paul Bullard. Hanzel is so hot right now. Hanzel. Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2015 

Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2006 Flowers Pinot Noir - Sonoma Coast, California
If people are in the mood for iced tea, tell them you have Flowers and they may reconsider. With dark cherry, raspberry, teaberry and leather nuances how can the vane say no? The tannins are soft and the wine is concentrated. When people have a bottle of this to show to the rest of the restaurant, they feel rich and classy, kind of like Ron Burgundy. Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2011 

Bien Nacido Pinot Noir

2004 J. Wilkes Pinot Blanc "Block Q" Pinot Noir, Bien Nacido 9/6/07 - it had a deeply concentrated pomegranate disposition that reminded me of a beautifully extracted red Burgundy without the funky barnyard. It was like deeply macerated binge cherries that weren't syrupy. The alcohol wasn't offensive like some higher alcohol wines. Cheaper than Saintsbury's Toyon Farm and just as good. Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2010 

2002 Calera "Selleck Vineyard" Pinot Noir, Mt. Harlan - burnt leather and tobacco nuances gave this more of a "traditional" character than some of the bigger styles out there. Lots of earth and masculinity without over-extraction. Reminded me of Acacia's wines from Carneros. Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2013 

Carmel Valley Pinot Noir

2008 Bernardus “Ingrid’s Vineyard” – It seemed like it was lighter on its feet that the ’08 Rosella’s Vineyard, well balanced and somewhat snappy. Last tasted fall of 2010 Drink now-2015 

2005 Silvestri Pinot - Carmel Valley - high alcohol, real big, with bing cherry, and cracked black pepper. This wine was well-extracted, had an intense light purple color had velvety roundness that reminded me of a 03' Volnay by Bouchard. The black pepper nuance confused me. Last tasted 2007 Drink now-2010 

Lexus Grand Tasting

Lexus Grand Tasting at Pebble Beach Food & Wine

It was nice to cleanse the palette with M.V. Nicolas Feuillette Brut Rose’. This bubbler comes from Chouilly, which is a sub-region of Reims, which is within the region of Champagne, which is in the boundaries of one of the best wine producing regions on the planet, France. It had aromas of bubble gum, cherries and other red fruits.

The winemaker of the 2010 Chateau Desclans “Whispering Angel” Rose’(pictured above), visited us from Provence, France and I commended him for his delicious drink. When I worked at Marinus, my fellow employees and I would make rap songs about this remarkable beverage, “It’s crisp, it’s clean, fen to make you scream. Whispering Angel Son!”

2009 Lail “Blueprint” Sauvignon Blanc, Napa.
It was new world in style in that it wasn’t waxy like a white Bordeaux, but citrusy like a Central Valley tangerine.

2007 Au Bon Climat “Hildegard” Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Aligote’, Santa Maria Valley
This somehow reminded me of a white a white Burgundy. The assistant winemaker told me that the Corton Charlemagne was believed to be a grape clone of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Aligote’. I never knew that. Thanks for filling me in dude (assistant winemaker).

2008 Rombauer Chardonnay, Napa
Romabauer Chardonnay has become a wine descriptor. It is: buttery, oak, delicious and sommeliers hate it, because it caters to the masses and they no longer have leverage. It was so cool to meet the owner. That guy was a baller.

2007 Domaine Serene “Evenstad Reserve” Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Am I tasting Cote de Nuits Pinot Noir? This beauty was seductive and had lots of red fruit aromas like that of Burgundy. It had tannin. It had backbone.

2008 Numanthia “Termes” Toro, Spain
“It takes two vines two produce one bottle,” said the super-hot French chick pouring this Spanish wine. “Oh and they crush the grapes by foot too,” she said. That’s hot. The wine was too, but in a ripe, dark fruit-way.

2008 Barnett Spring Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain, Napa
The chocolate dust was distinct and delicious. This booth was near the massage table.

The Massage Table
I can’t afford a massage. This one was free, so I gave Yoeli a 10-spot for her efforts. She was more sensual than any of the wines.

Pelegrino
Drink as much water as wine. This booth took awhile.

Carmel Valley Roasting Company
Foglifter? It’s gorgeous outside. I’m still slightly buzzed, and feeling good.

Secrets of a Sommelier

Secrets of a Sommelier: Pinot Noir at Pebble Beach Food & Wine

Rajat Parr, Wine director of Michael Mina and RN 74 says it best, “You don’t want a Pinot to be too loose.”

Damon Ornowski, Master Sommelier and Italian wine expert adds to Parr's theory, “Great Pinot has tension. It says, 'I’m going to seduce you and you’re going to have to take your time.'”

As the panel of legendary sommeliers, began to blind taste these Pinot Noirs, I took notes about how they assess a wine's color, aroma, and taste. They make note of the wine's: acidity, alcohol, earthy nuances, use of oak, climate etc.

2008 MacMurray Ranch, Russian River
It was viscus, had notes of raspberry and cherry-cola and offered potent alchohol.

2008 Cusumano, Sicily, Italy
Everyone thought this was a Barbaresco. Those Nebbiolo based wines are compared to great Pinots from nearby Burgundy. However, this one was a Pinot from an island much further south. It had firm tannins, subtle earthy notes, and it was intense and extracted. After all, a warm climate translates to more alcohol.

2009 Hamilton Russell, Walker Bay, South Africa
There were nuances of burnt tar and rubber. Nevertheless, it was bright because it came from a cool climate.

2007 August Kessler, Rheingau, Germany
This Spatburgunder had lots of acidity and extremely light-pale color because Germany is one of the furthest wine growing regions away from the equator

2009 Evening Land “The Tempest Vineyard”, Santa Rita Hills
It was woodsy like you were kicking up underbrush in a forest. It had: black cherry, baby fat (whatever that means), truffle, and ample alcohol that was balanced and far from offensive.

2007 Peregrine, Central Otago, New Zealand
Nice core fruit, great acidity and nuances of cinnamon and rose petal. Look out for wine this region. They are not showy but racy.

2009 Twomey Pinot Noir, Russian River
Larry Stone, Master Sommelier and wine god thought this was a warm-climate Burgundy, which proves that wine humbles everyone.